E-Mail: Raoul Fiebig Last updated: 08-09-2001
Ship Review

M/S "Deutschland", Peter Deilmann-Reederei
July 7th, 2001 - Steubenhöft, Cuxhaven, Germany

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On July 7th, 2001 I was given the opportunity to visit the M/S "Deutschland", the flagship of German Peter Deilmann-Reederei, at the historic Steubenhöft in Cuxhaven, Germany.

Built in 1998, the 175-meter M/S "Deutschland" is a small ship by today's standards. She accommodates 520 passengers in her 22,496 gt, along with a crew of 280. Being a new ship naturally means that her curriculum vitae is less than colorful. Built at Germany's well-known Howaldtswerke Deutsche Werft AG (HDW), she is only the second major ocean-going cruise ship built for her owners, Peter Deilmann-Reederei of Neustadt in Holstein, Germany.

Entrepreneur Peter Deilmann originally offered excursions of less than a day aboard small coastal cruise boats, so-called "Butterfahrten" ("butter voyages"). But it wasn't the duty-free butter that had given the short trips their interesting name in the 1950s that made Peter Deilmann a well-off man, it was the sale of duty-free liquor and tobacco aboard the boats. Popular destinations off the German coast included the tiny island of Helgoland offering duty-free shopping, seal colonies on sank banks or day-cruises to nowhere.

In 1980, Deilmann launched his first ocean-going cruise ship, the 7,813 gt "Berlin", built at the HDW shipyard in Kiel. Following a two-year charter to Germany's Neckermann Seereisen and another three-year charter to Blue Funnel Cruises of Singapore (the "Berlin" was renamed "Princess Mahsuri" for the time of the charter), Deilmann began offering cruises himself. In 1986, the "Berlin" was stretched to 9,570 gt.

The "Berlin" also became German TV's third "Traumschiff" ("dream ship"). "Das Traumschiff", one of the most popular television shows in Germany, was originally shot onboard the "Vistafjord", later on the first "Astor". Plans to shoot new episodes after the "Astor's" sail to South Africa onboard Hapag-Lloyd's luxurious 1982-built M/S "Europa" fell through because of Hapag-Lloyd's horrendous financial claims. Peter Deilmann gladly jumped in and offered his "Berlin" as the new "Traumschiff". What sounded like an expedient at first became the longest tie of the show to a particular ship ever. The "Berlin" was only replaced in 1998 - by the brand-new M/S "Deutschland", who has been the "Traumschiff" since then.

In 2000, a sad chapter had to be added to the otherwise successful and exemplary story of the Peter Deilmann-Reederei, when almost 100 passengers bound for a cruise on the M/S "Deutschland" died in the tragic Concorde crash near Paris.

Today, Deilmann owns the "Deutschland" and the "Berlin", as well as a traditional sailing vessel, the "Lili Marleen", and nine luxurious river boats (a tenth vessel is currently under construction).

It seems that whenever I visit a cruise ship, the weather god tries to provide the best weather possible, and he simply outdid himself the day I visited the M/S "Deutschland". He was probably trying to impress my mother who accompanied me this time. It was so hot that I had to open the window while driving around 80 to 100 mph on the Autobahn. Our next family car will have an air conditioning, that's for sure! Fortunately, we were lucky enough to get into only one traffic jam, that held us up for approx. 45 minutes.

I had been to Cuxhaven, the "Deutschland's" North Sea homeport, once - but that was some 20 years ago when I was a little boy, so I really did not have any ideas any longer on how it was like. During the time of the mass emigrations from Europe in the 19th and early 20th century, Cuxhaven was one of Germany's busiest sea ports, and homeport to the ships of the famed HAPAG. Originally based in Hamburg, the company chose Cuxhaven as the embarkation port for its ships, when those became so large that they couldn't navigate the river Elbe up to Hamburg any longer. The most prominent vessels to regularly call at Cuxhaven included the "Imperator" and the "Vaterland" shortly before the first World War. From 1900 to 1902, the HAPAG had built a large terminal at Cuxhaven's Steubenhöft that was able to accommodate the huge express liners.

It sounds incredible, but somehow that terminal survived a hundred years and two world wars. Today, it is the world's only terminal from the "grand old days" (that were no that "grand" at all for the immigrants) that is still kept to its original appearance. And somehow this is where the circle is closed: Can there be a better place to embark a vessel reminiscent of the "golden days of the grand ocean liners" than Cuxhaven's Steubenhöft? I don't think so. What a great historic place to embark for a cruise!

Now, please let me invite you for a tour of the M/S "Deutschland", starting on the lowest passenger deck and then climbing up deck by deck.

Deck 3 / Kur-Deck hosts the "Deutschland's" spa area - probably one of the most beautiful spas afloat. There's everything one might ask for: a good indoor swimming pool, solarium, sauna, massage and Thalassotherapy. The spa's fittings and furniture are very luxurious and large-scale paintings decorate the walls. The whole area is of a very good size for a small ship. Adjacent to the spa, the infirmary is situated. The hospital even has a dialysis station. Excellent!

The next-higher deck, Deck 4 / Steuermanns-Deck, accommodates a number of passenger cabins. The cabin numbers beginning with 40.. are outside, while those beginning with 41.. are inside. M/S "Deutschland" has a number of single cabins (28 on this deck, alone), unlike so many other cruise ships today. It's good to see that this cruise line remembers the growing number of single passengers and does not except them by charging ridiculous single supplements. The picture shows one of the inside single ("Kabinett"-class) cabins on this deck. Well furnished with a comfortable bed and large sofa that can become on additional lower berth (a companion pays a lower "additional berth" fare only), this type of cabin comes complete with two closets, a TV set, individual air conditioning, a small writing desk and stool and individual pieces of art (and I mean art, not posters or something like that). The bathroom (with a shower stall) is small but high-quality fittings are found. Rosewood accents and excellent mouldings make this a nice and cozy yet elegant but by no means obtrusive room.

One deck up, on Deck 5 / Kapitäns-Deck, another set of inside and outside staterooms is situated, including an additional eight single cabins, as well as "Komfort"- and "Klassik"-class outside cabins. While the "Komfort" cabins are similar to the slightly smaller "Kabinett" insides, the "Klassik" staterooms feature either two single beds or a queen-size bed. There's an extra closet as well as a dressing table with a easy chair and / or stool. All cabins have a bathroom with shower only.

Also on Kapitäns-Deck, the lobby with the front desk is located. Embarking the M/S "Deutschland" on this deck, passengers enter a world of classic elegance, almost lavish but neither overdone nor kitschy. There is no spectacular atrium with glass elevators, but a small "mini Atrium", three decks high and featuring a beautiful large-scale painting and hand-made mouldings. Large tiffany-glass lights add to the "old-world" atmosphere of this nice place.

Deck 6 / Deutschland-Deck hosts a number of public rooms. All the way forward the wonderful Kaisersaal is found. Most definitely one of the most beautiful showrooms afloat, the Kaisersaal is reminiscent of a small opera house, complete with wrap-around balcony and a huge chandelier (approximately two metric tons in weight). Taking a look at the painting decorating the ceiling, the name Michelangelo comes to mind. Again, craftsmen have created decorative mouldings. The capitals of the pillars lining the room are covered with real gold leafs. Extraordinary pieces of art decorate the walls of the balcony, some of the from Peter Deilmann's private property. The stage is of a good size and bar service is available. While the bar counter is of real marble, the "marble pillars" are fake, in an effort to reduce the weight in order to keep the center of gravity low in the ship. The Kaisersaal's balcony is reached either by a spiral staircase from the main level of the room, or from the adjacent cabin hallways. As with most "real" opera houses the seating (in comfortable armchairs) is red and the sightlines are generally good, with some exceptions.

On both starboard and portside, a hallway connects the lobby (I won't use the word atrium any longer as it doesn't seem to fit) with the dining room further aft. Sandwiched between the two hallways, the Salon Lili Marleen is situated. A well-known song during the time of the Second World War, Lili Marleen was popular among German and Allied soldiers alike. The famous song that warmed the hearts during one of the darkest periods of time in Human history did not only give his name to the room aboard the M/S "Deutschland", but also to Peter Deilmann's sailing vessel. The Salon Lili Marleen is an excellent cocktail lounge. The seating is in extremely comfortable easy chairs and the atmosphere is almost reminiscent of a British club (although the room is not as "colorful" as those clubs sometimes are). Beware - not everything that looks like wood actually is wood, but the deception is almost too good to notice unless you carry out the "knock-knock" test. There's a full-service bar and a good-sized dance floor isn't missing, either. One of the room's previous shortcomings was being removed as I toured the ship: workmen were fixing thin curtains that will most definitely improve the room's intimacy and that will also make the room more cozy during daytime by letting less light through. Sitting in this beautiful lounge looking on bright orange and white lifeboats outside the windows surely wasn't too enchanting. It's good to see that Deilmann apparently listens to his passengers, who had suggested this move.

Next aft, the Restaurant Berlin is located. This is the "Deutschland's" main dining room where dinner is served in two seatings (although there is some flexibility). Most tables seat a small number of passengers, but from several tables for two to tables for eight, there is nevertheless a wide range from which to choose. The ship's interior designer seems o have a penchant for extensive, colorful, glazed lighting. It is far from being comparable to some other cruise lines' read and blue neon, which is the main thing! The chairs do have armrests and beautifully carved backrests. All passengers have assigned tables in the dining room, but they may choose to eat at the Lido Gourmet (buffet) or in the alternative Restaurant Vierjahreszeiten, instead.

All the way aft on Deutschland-Deck, the gymnasium and a second sauna area are found. Unfortunately, the only way to get there is via the open deck on the next higher deck. Not so good during chilly weather. The gym / sauna itself, however, is well-equipped. There's almost every keep-fit apparatus the sports buff might expect, combined with a wonderful oceanview through big picture windows. Entering the sauna section one wonders if this is a Turkish bath. Wonderful mosaics everywhere - this has to be one of the very best amenities of this kind on the seven seas. When they have finished their workout or sauna session, passengers have an exclusive open deck all for themselves just outside of the area directly overlooking the wake.

All the way forward on the next-higher deck, Deck 7 / Commodore-Deck, a small open deck space is situated - below the command bridge. Next aft is the balcony level of the Kaisersaal, reached through some doors on this deck. Adjacent to the balcony, the outside "Klassik" cabins 7001 through 7016 are located, identical to those on the lower decks, but more expensive because of their location.

Passing through the Lobby, which has its third and highest level on this deck, the attention of the passenger is immediately drawn - as almost everywhere aboard this ship - on a beautiful piece of art. The Kolonnaden, the ship's shopping center with boutique, souvenir shop etc. is next aft. For those passengers who are not into shopping, a large sofa provides the perfect setting for watching the fellow passengers or for just having a relaxing break. As a matter of course, the shops were closed as we were in port.

Further aft, the alternative Restaurant Vierjahreszeiten (Four Seasons) is located. In contrast to alternative dining rooms on many other ships, there is no extra charge for dining here, but passengers are not allowed to have dinner here an two consecutive evenings, so that all passengers onboard the "Deutschland" should be able to enjoy the special experience at least once per cruise. The Restaurant Vierjahreszeiten seats 104 passengers at small tables for two and four, as well as at two tables for six. In a small adjacent room, a dinner party of ten can be accommodated in total privacy. The restaurant's interior design is very subdued and tasteful. It is obvious that the food is considered the "star", while the decor should support but never eclipse the exceptional dining experience. It is interesting that a lot of seating is on benches. I did not expect that for a restaurant like this. While some passengers might enjoy the "extra space" a bench offers, others might find it difficult to reach everything without having to move the table. In addition to that, the places of some of the waiter stations seems to be slightly awkward.

Zum Alten Fritz, a fine pub, is found further aft. The room is decorated with excellent wooden (or probably not wooden - who knows?) wall panels and furniture, and the clever use of mirrors makes the room larger than it actually is in addition to providing an even more upscale setting. Usually I'm not a fan of this "old trick" to make a room look larger, but here it has been realized in a very respectable way. The heavy leather sofas and easy chairs add to the noble atmosphere of this excellent pub. There's also enough space for those who prefer to sit at the bar, and basic nightly entertainment is also featured.

Adjacent to the Zum Alten Fritz pub, an excellent open deck is situated, featuring wooden tables and seats (this time it is definitely wood!). The seats have good royal blue cushions with "MS Deutschland" embroidered in the backrests - excellent!

M/S "Deutschland's" most luxurious accommodations are located on Deck 8 / Admirals-Deck. The "Klassik" inside cabins are identical to the outside "Klassiks", but without a window. The general décor is very similar in all cabin categories onboard, so it's the range of amenities and the additional space that sets the higher cabin grades apart. The picture shows a "Luxus" outside which is approximately 4 square meters larger than the "Klassik" cabins. A look into the bathroom shows that it is compact but luxuriously appointed. The washbasin is inlaid in marble and various motifs decorate the tiles.

There is one Owner's Suite as well as the "Honeymoon Suite", which is shown in the picture. This is only cabin onboard the "Deutschland" that has a private balcony - a narrow one with not-so-good sightlines that is. The bedroom features a king-size bed. All cabins in the grades "Suite" and above feature a bathroom with a full-sized bathtub, and "Grande-Suites" and above have walk-in closets. And while all 17 cabin grades are not overly large, they feature high-quality furnishings and fittings. The smaller size of the cabins onboard is probably the ship's biggest disadvantage compared with competing vessels and the German and international markets.

Aft of the forward main stair tower (the one in the lobby) the cinema / conference room is situated. The term "conference room" is a little misleading, as this is mainly a lecture room. Individual writing tables for conferences etc. are not available. This is a fine cinema, but the seats should really be staggered in order to provide better sightlines. Popular and first-run movies are shown, as are important sports events and TV shows.

All the way aft, another open deck space is located, next to the library. Featuring a fake fireplace and comfortable leather armchairs, this is a popular place a read a good book. The selection is "not so hot", but books are also available in the Lido-Terrasse one deck up.

Forward on Deck 9 / Lido-Deck, the Lido-Terrasse is found. This very nice and airy room serves as an observation lounge and reading room. Whenever possible, the latest newspapers are distributed here, and in addition to the supply in the library passengers find more glass cabinets with books here. The wicker furniture is rather comfortable and has decent cushions. An "early-bird" breakfast is available, in addition to the full buffet in the Lido-Gourmet and to the dining room. This is a "no entertainment" room in which passengers might "escape" if they would like to "take a break" - not that the entertainment onboard the "Deutschland" would be loud or energetic!

There is an exemplary pool deck aft of the Lido-Terrasse. The seawater pool is of a decent size and excellent teakwood loungers are provided - including the fitting cushioned pads, of course. It is so wonderful that there are no plastic seats and tables. Two big (fake) ferns add to the attractive look, as do a water curtain, the antique-looking pillars, arches and roofs and yet another beautiful sculpture of three children having fun at the pool. The "Deutschland's" funnel with its distinctive "Das Traumschiff" slogan stands in solitary splendour aft of the pool, leaving no doubt that this is the "famed TV ship". On the opposite (forward) end of the pool deck, the fine Poolbar invites passengers to enjoy an "interior refreshment" after the "exterior" one in the pool. It is sad that there are no jacuzzis onboard.

Aft of the funnel, the Lido-Gourmet is the ship's casual buffet restaurant. Seating 152 passengers, this is the second alternative restaurant onboard the M/S "Deutschland". While the food is offered at the buffet, drinks and beverages are served at the table. This is an airy and rather bright room, without being in contradiction to the ship's general layout and décor. Familiar aspects such as the lighting and the (light) wall panels make this an unusually elegant setting for a casual buffet restaurant. Weather permitting, passengers are also welcome to eat outside the Lido-Gourmet on an adjacent open deck where a fine grill station, the outdoor Lido-Café and the Lido-Bar are found. The Lido-Bar overlooks the stern (and the wake) of the vessel and is most definitely a wonderful place for enjoying cocktails at sunset.

The whole Lido-Deck is surrounded by an open deck for sunbathers (not a continuous promenade, however). As on the pool deck - which divides the deck into two parts - the loungers are of fine teakwood and have royal blue cushions. Unfortunately, the forward part of the deck (the one surrounding the Lido-Terrasse) has a green Astroturf decking, which looks totally out of place on a ship like this. It almost looks as if there was no more money to continue using teak. This otherwise fine sun deck should really be upgraded to teak in a future refurbishment. The aft part could serve as a good example.

Finally, a golf driving cage and two putting greens are located on Deck 10 / Golf-Deck, which also provides spectacular views over the bow of the ship.

The M/S "Deutschland" is an excellent cruise ship. But as all other vessels, she is not perfect. While the cabins and suites are well-furnished and luxuriously decorated, they are (sometimes considerably) smaller than those aboard competing ships. This is not a ship for children (there are no dedicated facilities for them), and neither a ship for passengers who demand a casual atmosphere, a highly organized daily program or large-scale entertainment. Is this an ocean liner? No, but it comes very close, and this really is the perfect ship for those passengers who don't think they would feel comfortable aboard older ships, but who would love to take a cruise on a "luxury liner". There is an adequate number of public rooms, and the whole ship has an extremely refined atmosphere, which is missing on so many other ships today. There is no casino, and the art everywhere on the ship cannot be purchased in art auctions. How wonderful and relaxing to be able to enjoy a vacation without being confronted with Mammon everywhere. Thank you, Mr Deilmann, for using teakwood almost everywhere on the open decks. Thank you for sparing your passengers the "doubtful pleasure" of having to sit on rickety plastic seats.

This ship is probably one of cruising's best-kept secrets. A rather formal ship, the "Deutschland" is ideal for passengers who prefer smaller, more intimate ships. If a balcony and a huge suite with private balcony isn't a must for you, you might want to give this wonderful vessel a try. If the "software" is as good as the "hardware", the M/S "Deutschland" really deserves her five stars!

I'd be glad to answer any questions you might have.

Raoul Fiebig

Copyright 2001 © Raoul Fiebig